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The most spectacular new-season couture jewellery
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upamfva
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08 Mar 2022, 05:25

Following several seasons of virtual presentations, the City of Light was back on schedule this January couture week. Buyers, private clients, and journalists alike abandoned their at-home offices and flocked to Paris, eager to feast their eyes on the world’s most exclusive fashion collections in real life.To get more news about jewelry designer near me, you can visit jewelryhunt.net official website.

Jewellery aficionados certainly weren’t left wanting. While it’s true that Van Cleef & Arpels, Chanel and Bulgari held off presenting their one-of-a-kind confections until July’s couture schedule, there was plenty of sparkle to be had at many of the city’s other storied jewellers. And given that January high jewellery presentations are traditionally smaller and more heritage-focused than their summery counterparts, there were still plenty of show-stopping pieces and surprising world-firsts on display.
From intensely vibrant gemstones at Louis Vuitton and Cartier (not to mention an eye-popping 6,225-carat rough Zambian emerald revealed by Chopard), to innovative materials at De Beers and Cindy Chao, and infinitely versatile new jewels at Boucheron and Chaumet, jewellery designers this season exhibited incredible flights of creative fancy, despite (or perhaps because of) the challenges of the last two years.
.The Alchemist of Light, by De Beers
couture high jewellery the alchemist of light by de beers light rays chandelier earringsjpg
De Beers’ new high jewellery collection was a glittering exploration of fluidity and light, particularly the ‘elemental magic’ conjured when light is reflected through a diamond. Two unique, and quite different, parures were unveiled this season, with a further five due to launch later this year.

Comprised entirely of white diamonds, the Atomique set was inspired by a diamond’s own molecular structure, interpreted as a series of abstract patterns and motifs. Inspired by the way sunlight pierces through clouds formations, the Light Rays set contrasts rough and polished diamonds with dramatic black rhodium-plated gold, as well as articulated slivers of bronze and gold-tinted titanium – the first time the lightweight yet durable material has been used by the house.

Flexibility and movement are key to these new jewels. Cue rows of diamonds that shimmer and tremble with every movement, necklaces that can be dismantled and worn as earrings, a tasselled charm that becomes a pendant, and dramatic collars that can be detached for more of a minimalist statement. “These daring designs push creative and technical boundaries,” says Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers. “Our clients not only express their individuality through these wearable works of art, but also bring another layer to the creative story.”.
Bravery Chapter II, by Louis Vuitton
louis vuitton couture high jewellery
According to Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of watches and jewellery, the first chapter of the house’s ‘Bravery’ collection, launched last June, represented the different stages of Louis Vuitton’s early life. This latest instalment, which coincides with the bicentennial of the designer’s birth, “celebrates the highlight of his career – the invention of the iconic trunk and all its distinctive characteristics,” she explains.

Vuitton’s signature locks, buckles and studs can be glimpsed throughout the 20-piece strong collection, reimagined in precious metals and rainbow-coloured gemstones. The spectacular Magnétisme necklace (pictured), for example, boasts two rows of pink, yellow and orange tourmalines, suspending a cushion-cut, trunk-shaped yellow sapphire weighing more than 20 carats. The gem itself can be detached to wear on a chain. Meanwhile, colourful cocktail rings are adorned with gold corners, much like the label’s luggage, held with diamond rivets and set with eye-catching gems in juicy hues. It’s a tongue-in-cheek take on the house’s codes and marks “a new Louis Vuitton signature that we are introducing to high jewellery,” adds Amfitheatrof. Watch this luxuriously monogrammed space.
Galons Dior, by Dior Joaillerie
dior couture high jewellery
Victoire de Castellane, Dior’s artistic director of jewellery, has drawn much inspiration from the maison’s couture fabrics for her designs over the past two decades and has interpreted everything from delicate lace to swatches of silk into delicate, shimmering jewels.

This season, de Castellane has turned her creative eye towards Dior’s decorative trimmings for a collection of 81 original pieces entitled ‘Galons’. Zig-zag ‘stitches’ of diamonds run along asymmetric rings, necklaces are festooned with white gold swags, and bracelets evoke voluminous ruffles in gold, studded with button-like sapphires, emeralds and rubies. And, for the first time, De Castellane has also added glittering brooches and cufflinks for men to the collection, to bring a dash of couture flair to any tailored outfit.
Déferlante, by Chaumet
chaumet couture high jewellery
Chaumet has captured the movement of water in diamonds for its latest couture line. The Parisian jeweller certainly has form – its archives include a design for an ornate ‘Wavescroll’ tiara, created by Joseph Chaumet in 1900.

For Déferlante, which means ‘breaker’, Chaumet’s new creative director Ehssan Moazen has translated foaming waves into white gold and brilliant and step-cut diamonds.

The Déferlante tiara (pictured), for example, recreates a rolling, Hokusai-like swell with 1,600 white diamonds, with sprays of larger gems cresting at the top of each surge. Meanwhile, the Mouvement necklace suggests currents running towards the shore with three parallel rows of white diamonds swirling around a central 3.57 carat pear-cut stone – the favourite cut of Chaumet’s most famous client, the Empress Joséphine.
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